Anchovies, cargo, trucks, oh and humans... ALL ABOARD!

Quellon, Volcano Corcovado on mainland
Since leaving quiet Quellon, a lot has happened. For one, we made the 32 hour ferry journey to Puerto Chacabuco. The seascape was exquisite. We spied volcanoes and spired mountain peaks frequently. The clear weather permitted us to see clearly and spend time lounging on the deck. On deck we were deilghted by the flooming of nearby whales! I am ashamed to say that I did not positively ID these mammals, but I lacked an insightful guide and no crew seemed to be able to provide any other information than "ballena, si es una ballena. que tipo? un ballena de color gris!" I too noticed that it was whale, a grey colored whale.

Glaciers abounded as we neared sunset on the second night. The outline of the mountains to the east and mounded islands to the west provided quite the contrast.

The accomodations, un butaca (meaning arm chair according to my dictionary) were less stellar (oh speaking of stellar.... quite the night sky view from the top deck. Lots to see if it were not for that pesky flood light atop our vessel). The Alejandrina, our vessel also housed anchovy, cargo and trucks. Passengers, well, its not about the passengers. We spent the night in and out of conciousness, plagued between reclining in the "arm chair" which was actually a stripped down version of an airplane seat and lying down across several seats and being probed by unfriendly metal screws it was not easy to decide how to sleep. The crying baby didnt help, nor did the constant chug of the engine and vibrations and fierce humming drone that ended up ringing in my ears and central nervous system for longer than the after-effects of most concerts.

So it wasnt glamorous, but it wasnt without redemptive value either.

From Puerto Chacabuco to Aisen to Coyaihque all on buses. Moderately priced passage and good timing. We arrived in Coyaihque and spent one night at a hostel. We dined on Pichanga, a Chilean dish that I think someone who is stoned would make.

The line of thinking would go something like this: I made french fries... what else should I add?

Going through the fridge they decide: hot dog, cooked lamb, chicken and melted cheese... and hard boiled egg. Going through the pantry they decide; pickled vegetables and mayonaise.

ta da. RANDOM.

That and a Dolbek, a Patagonian Ale, not bad.

As for Chilean cuisine... I am not the biggest fan. Lots of bread. Lots of mayo.

Some of the summer fresh fruit we were finding in the north was great too... nectarines and peaches and melons.

I havent really the time to detail our first full trekking adventure now, so I will save for now. Briefly though, it was amazing... up and over two mountain passes, eye level with gaping glaciers, the bluest blue lake I have ever seen, dumping waterfalls, raging rivers (and river crossings) scampering up and down scree faces, rainbow delights, ice and snow field crossing, some seriously sore quads and a million breathes of relief were had.

So, love and daring and all else from the south.

Yours in Chilean chaos,

CT

And next... on to Conservacion Patagonicas project site, the future patagonia national park to look around, tour, take notes and interview for my senior thesis project (and hike and backpack) and then a crossing to Argentina!!