I am writing briefly from Chiloe Island. A place I have indeed been before (I also noted Darwin´s dislike of this island when he visited in the early 20th century...he called it a miserable hole which was suitable only for the most resilient of amphibians due to the high amount of rainfall it recieves year round) this time I am in Quellon, a tiny fishing town on the southeast corner. It is typical of other seaside chilean towns: dogs roam, tiny tiendas with fruits and foods populate every street, there is a central soccer pitch and some crumbling abandoned infrastructure, fissured sidewalks with discarded box wine containers piling up in alley ways, artesania markets with ponchos and matte gourds, a walmart owned supermarket (named ¨Bigger¨), the scent of freshly caught fish, the cries of gulls, colorful fishing boats moored offshore, bobbing like corks in the gentle waters, and streets lined with azalias, roses and this time of year (to my great delight) fruit trees bursting with ripe red apples and plums.
Mike and I took a bus, about a six hour ride in quite comfortable quarters on a ferry from mainland to Chiloe to catch a ferry that leaves tonight for Puerto Chacabuco. We stayed last night in hospedaje Captain Don Luis. After some asking around and a recommendation from the Captain himself (who claimed it was un ambiente muy agradable y limpia, con toallas calientes... a nice, clean environment with hot towels... though there were no hot towels let alone hot water) buy pleasant enough!
We will be traveling for 36 hours with no sleeping accomodations (we hope to pitch the tent on deck) many degrees of latitude south to this remote port town in region XI of Chile. It is here that we will visit Conservacion Patagonica´s project site in the Chacabuco Valley. I hope to conduct some interviews and take photographs. We plan to backpack as well. It is my great hope that we will be able to hike from Chile into Argentina as well. From this juncture in southern Chile, the easiest option is east. More will be found out upon arrival, and don´t worry mom, I am getting the inside scoop from a local researcher and we will not be wandering aimlessly in vast, uncharted wilderness.
All is well otherwise. It was sad to say goodbye to my wildlands studies buddies. We parted ways yesterday and it is doubtful I will see them again in South America. But not doubtful that I will not see them again ever! A great group of people.. I will miss stargazing, speaking in nerd voices, washing dinner pots, hiking (and the inevitable falling that took place), jamming, swimming, cliff jumping, waterfall sliding, kayaking, rockthrowing, gooseberry bush trimming, running in the rain, traveling in the rain, huddling under the tarp against the rain, dancing, ´making the deal´ cram studying, book clubbing, temporary tatoo drawing, cooking and all else that took place on these 6 weeks of hyper speed ecological education. SO loved the whole experience, our wonderful teachers and my dear peers.
slight tear...
So, ahead we charge yet further south and more north of nearly nowhere.
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